Royal Arches Trip Report

First Pitch of Royal ArchesMark Ingles and I [Paul M] climbed Royal Arches a couple of weeks ago [May 12], and a few people have asked about it, and others have expressed some interest, so I thought I'd provide some information for anybody interested.

First Valley Trip of 2012

La Cosita LeftAh! The first club Valley weekend of the season! What a great trip with a big turnout. Many of us traveled up on Friday morning to squeeze in a bonus day of climbing. We were greeted by warm temps, sunshine, and lush green scenery as we approached the Valley. Not to mention the raging Merced River and the waterfalls that drain into it. Sonja, myself and two visitors to the club stopped to climb at Reeds Pinnacle and Five and Dime on our way into the Valley. The pull-out was abnormally full (especially for a Friday morning!) and we just barely squeezed in. We clamored up The Original Route (5.9, two pitches), bruised our knees on Bongs away left (5.8 OW), and attempted (and failed) a clean ascent of Stone Groove (10b).

Joshua Tree Trip Report Part 2

Leslie on Overhang BypassThree more days of climbing and 20+ more routes on the collective list.  The weather has been colder and windier than earlier in the week.  Wednesday we were in Indian Cove, which is usually a little warmer.  Thursday we went back into the main park and were mostly in the Hidden Valley Campgrounds.  Today, Friday, we went to Playhouse and Hemmingway but by mid-afternon we had to stop when it started hailing.  Øyvind and Øyvind joined us Friday evening for dinner as they near the end of a two week climbing trip.

Joshua Tree Trip Report

The first CCC climbing trip of the 2012 season has started out great.  Ann, Lea, Tim and I arrived Saturday night and got three great days of climbing in the main park.  The days are warm with a light breeze to keep it from getting too hot.

During the first three days, our collective route list includes:

The Norwegians are climbing El cap

What type of trad climbing do you like the most?

Are you safe?

By Dan Zimmerlin (Article originally from the CCC newsletter, The Crag)

Of course you are. You have been climbing for a fair length of time and have had no problems. A record of safety does indicate something. One big thing is that you probably have the good judgment not to get into bad situations. But what if something does go wrong, despite judgment? Will you know how to deal with it? And what about your partners? What do you know about them? Sure, you have known some of them for quite a while. You know what they know and you know they have good judgment. That is one reason they are your friends. But what about the others? The ones you don't know so well? What do they know?

Educational Climbs - Part 1

By Dan Zimmerlin

So, you want to learn how to climb. You want to prepare to do the classic, traditional free climbs. Many books have been written about technique, anchors, placing protection, etc.. But obviously you aren't going to learn to climb by only reading about it. You are going to have to get out there and do some climbs. But what climbs? Well, the ratings help some. But if you really want to learn you are going to have to choose the right climbs, the ones that will help you learn.

Educational Climbs - Part 2

by Dan Zimmerlin

This is the second installment of a list of what I am calling "educational climbs." Based on an idea in Dan Duane's book "El Capitan," these are, in my opinion, good routes on which to learn traditional skills in practice. This is not a list of classics, though there are classics among them.

Fall on Lost Brother

by Paul Minault

On September 29, 2002, I set out with Christian Dragheim and Chris Kerr, fellow members of the Cragmont Climbing Club, to explore the Lost Brother, a seldom-visited formation on the south side of Yosemite Valley between Sentinel Rock and the Cathedral Rocks. We hoped to locate the second pitch of the 5.6 first ascent route taken by David Brower, Ruben Schneider, and Morgan Harris in 1941. Christian, Sam Tabachnik, and Christian's friend Sean and I had explored the route the previous spring, but had not found the second pitch, ascending instead a strenuous 5.9 corner and lie-back system, after which we retreated. I later called Morgan Harris, the only surviving member of the first ascent team, who lived in Berkeley, to ask him to describe the route. He told me in a high, quavering voice that they had climbed a series of chimneys after the first pitch. The Sierra Club Bulletin for 1941 offered a few more details, but not much. Since Morgan was well on in years, I wanted to bring him a photographic record of the climb on our return. I particularly wanted to show him that we didn t have to use a shoulder stand to get through the bulging overhang on the first pitch, as he and Brower had done sixty years ago!


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