Educational Climbs - Part 2

by Dan Zimmerlin

This is the second installment of a list of what I am calling "educational climbs." Based on an idea in Dan Duane's book "El Capitan," these are, in my opinion, good routes on which to learn traditional skills in practice. This is not a list of classics, though there are classics among them.

Fall on Lost Brother

by Paul Minault

On September 29, 2002, I set out with Christian Dragheim and Chris Kerr, fellow members of the Cragmont Climbing Club, to explore the Lost Brother, a seldom-visited formation on the south side of Yosemite Valley between Sentinel Rock and the Cathedral Rocks. We hoped to locate the second pitch of the 5.6 first ascent route taken by David Brower, Ruben Schneider, and Morgan Harris in 1941. Christian, Sam Tabachnik, and Christian's friend Sean and I had explored the route the previous spring, but had not found the second pitch, ascending instead a strenuous 5.9 corner and lie-back system, after which we retreated. I later called Morgan Harris, the only surviving member of the first ascent team, who lived in Berkeley, to ask him to describe the route. He told me in a high, quavering voice that they had climbed a series of chimneys after the first pitch. The Sierra Club Bulletin for 1941 offered a few more details, but not much. Since Morgan was well on in years, I wanted to bring him a photographic record of the climb on our return. I particularly wanted to show him that we didn t have to use a shoulder stand to get through the bulging overhang on the first pitch, as he and Brower had done sixty years ago!

Where is your favorite place to climb in California?

Trip Report 9/18/11

Despite the threat of cold weather which scared some people off, this weekend’s trip to the Meadows turned out very nice. Nights were not too cold and the daytime weather was great for climbing. On the trip, we had three Marks, two Tims, and one each of the Mike, Craig, and Aaron variety. The only downside of the trip was the loud rowdy bunch in Group D that wanted to sing songs all night long. But they quieted down after one of the Marks - armed with a giant flash light - had a nice chat with them about quiet hours. Our next trip is to the valley on Sept 30th. I will be the coordinator and will send another announcement as the trip gets closer. One of the Marks, Mark P.

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