Beginner's Crack

Location: 
Berkeley Boulders
Area: 
Indian Rock
Formation: 
The Pit

Beginner's Crack is not the large diagonal crack on the right side of The Pit. That is known as Transportation. Even as early as the Fifties Transportation was used for getting up and down the rock and not as a climb per se. Since the preferred descent from Beginner's Crack is down Transportation, new climbers should start by climbing up and down Transportation a few times to gain confidence for the descent.

Beginner's crack is the vertical seam about 6 feet left of Transportation on the right side of The Pit. The problem is quite high, around 20 feet. Therefore real beginners might benefit from a top rope. There is a pole somewhat back from the top of Beginner's Crack to serve as an anchor if desired. However, even though it is high, it is a reasonable beginning boulder problem. The crux is getting over a short blank section for the feet, ending on a good ledge about 8 feet off the ground. This is high enough to cause pause, but reasonable to jump from if you don't figure it out, as long as you push off so as not to clip the rock on the way down. Most beginning boulderers get stuck with their hands on good holds and feet on two sloping, slippery footholds, with the blank section just high enough to keep them from getting their feet up on the next good foothold, a small ledge on the left (as shown in the video). A pad and/or a good spot is useful, but control is probably more important, to down climb or jump safely. After getting past the blank section there are lots of good holds making the next dozen feet more intimidating than hard. One can finish the problem by topping out slightly left, or at about 20' height follow a small ledge system for the feet heading right to the top of Transportation and the descent.


Indian Rock Maps