Indian Rock Traverse Crux

Location: 
Berkeley Boulders
Area: 
Indian Rock
Formation: 
The Pit

Indian Rock Traverse actually encircles the entire main Indian Rock. However most people just do sections or at most the interesting part beginning in The Pit and extending down to the bottom of the rock. Start at the left edge of The Pit, head right, around The Pit to The Corner, turn the corner, and continue down along Indian Rock Path. Near the bottom of the rock, before reaching The Dihedral in the back, the climbing gets easy. This is usually where people stop, or reverse and head back up. However, if you wish to do the whole traverse, keep going right on easy terrain until you get to Drinking Fountain Wall. Then link that traverse, a traverse of the Finger Crack Boulder, the Z Boulder Traverse, traverse of some miscellaneous boulders, and The Block. End by traversing the Beginner's Slab, down along the stairs back to The Pit.

The crux is getting across a blank section on the left side of The Pit to the chimney that splits the back of The Pit. Interestingly, though fairly hard, it yields to a variety of techniques: strength, flexibility or reach. It starts on very good holds just right of the prominent ledge on the left side of The Pit. There is (only) one decent hold to the right, somewhat low. Reach this with the right hand, leaving space to match. Use the left foot on the broken foothold to hold body weight as lowering onto the right hand, matching with the left. Move your feet along and reach far to the right to grab the lip of the overhang to the right. Move your feet along, and if you are flexible enough stem with the right foot to the right side of the chimney. Otherwise, you will have to kick both feet through to the right of the chimney. (As shown in the video.) At the same time, match your left hand on the same hold on the lip, just past the right hand. Pull up and right until you can move into the chimney.

The next interesting section is turning The Corner out of The Pit.